The Western Breach.
I do not recommend this route to casual tourists especially at a fringe season. This is a route.. Exposure, climbing moves, scree with good long death slides, etc
Ok, I givee up writing. More later. I'm in mmmy sleeping bag with everything on. Down jacket included. The soft sand turned rock hard within seconds of falling in the shade. My fingers froze so fast it tookk 30 mins to set up my 2 min setup bivy. It took alnost an hour to boil a pot of water b/c the gas is so cold. If I had to guess, based on my experience, -10 F no wind right now. Spit doesn't freeZe in the air but it does within a few seconds of hitting the ground.
This is an f'ing cold end to an f'ing cold but freaking awesome day. Highlights include a half pitch free solo 5.3 at 17k, significant class 4 / 5.0 sustained at 18k, all because the correct route was completely snow and ice covered, thick and slick...
Good night, no signal here, more tomorrow.
Joel
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